August 26, 2023. A night to remember at Richard and Donna’s place in the West End of Hartford – the food, the company, the wine. Richard’s Bucatini Alla Amatriciana and La Tagliata… Oh, my.
We ran into Richard and Donna last week at Westford Hill Distillers for the Flamingo Big Band performance. The band was swinging, and urging the crowd to participate. Richard and Donna, dressed to the nines, obliged – they were the first ones on their feet, dancing so effortlessly. The sun was shining and there was a slight breeze on the top of Westford Hill. It was a lovely day.
We chatted with Richard and Donna after the performance, and Richard told us about a butcher in East Hampton, MA, Corsello Butcheria, that offers fantastic grass-fed beef and other specialized meat products. Richard had just purchased some guanciale and some beautiful steak, and he invited to join us to join them at their place the following week for a meal of Bucatini Alla Amatriciana and La Tagliata – gluten-free, of course. So last night was the night.
APERATIVO AND ANTIPASTI. We arrived on time, and the table was set for six. Richard and Donna’s neighbor Sarah joined us. After making introductions and making sure we were all settled in, Richard mixed a special cocktail – Cherry on Top. A delicious concoction make with lemonade, Hartford Flavor Company Sour Cherry Vodka, RUNAMOK maple syrup, and Maraschino cherries. Cheers!
Sara was chatty and warm. I felt like I’d known her forever before we even finished the appetizers. Her husband Gabe was planning to join us a bit later in the evening. He had taken their kids to Lake Compounce for the day, then a quick bite to eat for the kiddos after the amusement park, and finally he would be dropping them off at home with the babysitter.
Ron and I didn’t show up empty-handed. We brough a fresh-baked loaf of sourdough and Richard bravely sampled it along with the rest of us, trusting our assurances, based on what we had learned from Michael Pollan, that fully fermented sourdough wouldn’t trigger his gluten sensitivity. He had prepared a roasted pepper bruschetta topping for the bread, and he pour a shallow bowl of the most amazing olive oil for dipping the bread in – Ultra Premium Gallego from Portugal.
We also brought a couple of bottles of wine – a Stephen Millier Cabernet Sauvignon from Naked Wines, and something French. Clearly we didn’t get the message. The meal was Italian! But Sarah was paying attention – she went to her local wine purveyor and asked for an Italian wine that would pair well with Guanciale, and another that would pair well with beef. I’m guessing that Sarah is always paying attention – so gracious.
PRIMI. Now for the Bucatini Alla Amatriciana. Guanciale, San Marzano tomatoes, bucatini, black pepper, and grated Pecorino Romano cheese. So few ingredients, yet so complex.
Guanciale is is an unsmoked Italian cured meat made from pork cheek. It lends a rich, salty note to pasta dishes. Richard started by chopping the guanciale and rendering it over a low flame, Then he scooped the guanciale out of the rendered fat and set it aside. He then poured out about half of the fat, but luckily he didn’t discard it right away. When he showed me where he was in the process so far, I asked why he didn’t just use all of the rendered pork fat. He looked at me for a moment, then he smiled and poured it back in. We’re glad he did! The rich, salty, fatty note wasn’t so much fatty as it was silky, and it infused the pasta as well as the sauce.
I have a difficult time finding interesting pasta shapes that are gluten-free. And even before we began avoiding gluten, I hadn’t had bucatini. It’s like a thicker spaghetti, but it’s hollow! It has such a unique mouth feel, coated and filled with the silky sauce, and it’s a key element of the Amatriciana. When there are so few elements to a dish, substitutions are not an option. Richard found bucatini made from chickpea flour at Whole Foods.
Ecco! Bucatini Alla Amatriciana – and don’t forget the pepper. Bellisimo!
CONTORNI. The elegant soup course was served next, Andalusian Salmorejo. It was served with the Asti. Or maybe we had begun pouring the Asti with the Bucatini Alla Amatriciana… Gorgeous plating – the rim of the plate was dusted with smoked paprika and it scented the soup so delicately.
SECONDI. The cut for the Tagliata was a sirloin tip steak. Richard salted it before grilling it – that’s it. And it was amazing. The presentation was artful. Perfectly grilled and juicy steak over a bed of fresh arugula, adorned with charred zucchini and jewel-toned tomatoes.
Gabe arrived in just enough time, and Richard happily brought plates of everything to the table for him. Gabe was as friendly and interesting as his wife. Conversation moved around the table. Gabe relaxed into the evening and Ron and I chatted with him for a bit, while Richard and Sarah broke into a separate conversation, and Donna sat at the head of the table, with Nolan, their kitty. Nolan had his arms around her neck. Everyone was happy, even Nolan. Our chatter flowed on, across and around the table.
What a wonderful evening. Bravo, Richard and Donna!
I love how Richard surrounds himself with such interesting and smart people – Sarah and Gabe were a pleasure to meet. I adore Richard – his joie de vivre is so infectious. He and Donna live well; Richard loves learning new things and sharing with his people. I’m so happy to be one of his people. Ron is too. Oh, by the way, Richard made Pollo la Tagliata this evening, and he sent me this picture (below). We weren’t there, but I wish we could have been. Isn’t it beautiful? Bellissimo!
I drooled through your review of a fabulous dinner with friends. Saluti!
Oh, Mary – you would have loved it!